When we think of the varsity jacket — the iconic wool and leather bomber emblazoned with patches — we think of a piece of clothing that has become a timeless staple. Its enduring appeal is reinforced by its continuous evolution. Once a status symbol of pride and achievement in elite circles, it has been reinvented and repurposed over the years to represent counterculture movements. From the first Harvard jacket marked with an “H” to the oversized bombers embraced by hip-hop culture, the varsity jacket is a versatile piece that never goes out of style.
What Is a Varsity Jacket?
A varsity jacket is a bomber-style jacket with a fitted wool body, leather sleeves, and structured shoulders. It also features ribbed cuffs and a ribbed hem. Originally called the “letterman jacket,” it was designed for university team players, particularly as football and baseball jackets. Athletes would wear chenille patches or embroidery representing their team’s colors, name, and symbol, as well as details showcasing their personal sports achievements.
The Letterman Jacket Through the Ages
In 1865, the first letterman jacket — bright red with a bold white “H” on the chest — was introduced at Harvard University. It didn’t take long for the design to spread to other universities, and soon the varsity jacket became a highly sought-after symbol of athletic achievement and status, both inside and outside the school environment.
Almost a hundred years later, a women’s version appeared. These jackets featured a more fitted waist and slimmer sleeves and were often produced in colors deemed more “appropriate” for women at the time. One of the first women’s letterman jackets, made in the 1970s at the University of Michigan, lacked the traditional leather sleeves and featured a smaller “M” patch — reflecting the lower value placed on female athletes at the time. This disparity was only addressed in 1991, when women and men finally began wearing the same design.
Thanks to movies such as Rebel Without a Cause (1955) and Grease (1978), the varsity jacket became a symbol of American pop culture and youth rebellion throughout the ’60s and ’70s. At this point, the jacket was not only a significant part of American tradition but also a highly desirable fashion item associated with counterculture, developing a duality in meaning that would continue to grow in the years to come.
Varsity Jackets and Street Culture
On August 11, 1973, a group of teenagers threw a legendary party in their Bronx apartment building. That night, hip-hop was born. Retracing history back to the electrifying sounds of DJ Kool Herc at that party, we can see how the varsity jacket became a key piece in hip-hop fashion. Soon, hip-hop artists embraced the jacket, with icons like LL Cool J and Run-D.M.C. wearing oversized versions, accessorized with thick chains and their signature Kangol bucket hats.
From Counterculture to Fashion Shows
In recent years, the varsity jacket has been cemented in fashion history by designers like Virgil Abloh.
“The designer’s final autumn/winter 2022 show for Off-White was shown posthumously at Paris Fashion Week, and the team staged an emotional tribute that celebrated Abloh’s ingenious design approach and unique ability to combine streetwear and couture gowns in perfect harmony,” wrote journalist Alice Cary for British Vogue.
Abloh’s deep appreciation for the letterman jacket was evident in his ability to merge high fashion with streetwear, a blend that defined his legacy.
Today, varsity jackets come in a range of styles, from understated monochrome designs to bold, colorful versions adorned with cartoonish patches. They even come in all different types of materials from leather, cotton toe ven silk ones. This versatile piece can be styled in countless ways. A sleek, minimal design can function as a refined overcoat for an everyday outfit — think jeans and a light shirt — while a more eccentric version can be paired with a long dress or a suit for an eye-catching, original statement.